The deep colours of velvet, the cold silver of chainmail, the romance of braided hair, crochet bonnets, tight corsetry. If these elements have begun to appear in your feeds, magazines or media, don’t be surprised—after all, Medieval is having a major moment. That is, at least, according to Pinterest Predicts, where Castlecore is projected to be one of the most prominent 2025 fashion trends. But what do we really mean when we talk of Medieval aesthetics, and why are they so popular right now?

The term Medieval—meaning of the Middle Ages—is an elusive one. It covers a stretch ranging from the 5th to the 15th century, and is defined by the lack of knowledge in which we have of it, making it a ‘dark’ period in history. Another important distinction to make is that when we discuss Medieval aesthetics, we are only really talking about Europe, specifically England and France. We owe much of this Medieval iconography to the 19th century Victorians, who took the anxieties of their rapidly industrializing society and sought peace in the fantasy of the past. 

Notably, Arthurian Mythology was translated and re-popularised along with the romanticization of its themes of chivalry, honour, and courtly love. Its heroic journeys and impossible loves inspired artistic movements such as that of the Pre-Raphaelites, who painted iconic imagery from this literature along with that of Chaucer and Dante. Think of knights in shining armour, ladies with flowing hair and flowing skirts, sun-dappled natural landscapes. Almost everything we associate with Medieval aesthetics is indebted to the Victorians’ interpretations of it—it was the first Medieval Revival, influencing not only art but architecture and fashion. As far as trend cycles go, this might have been the first time in Western history that people drew direct inspiration from the past and appropriated it into their fashion, the origin of our current model.

The next revival came in the 1960s and 70s, a different period when people looked for forms of escapism in their fashion and art. Youth movements developed anti-imperialist and anti-industrialist politics which they channelled into their clothes, popularising the 60s mod and 70s hippy. In terms of Medieval appropriation, this was the time of bell sleeves, empire waistlines, capes, and wild colours. Musicians were also inspired by the tradition of bards and troubadours which led to the popularity of artists like Donovan and the psychedelic imagery of The Beatles. It was all about nature, mysticism, celebrating youth and expressing social unrest. 

The structure of Medieval adaptation remained popular even after hippy culture died down. It was the 90s which saw a different type of appropriation take the stage, this time with the Gothic sensibilities of witchcraft at the forefront. Feminine silhouettes draped in dark velvets and flowing silks took popular culture by storm, with iconic films and tv shows like Buffy the Vampire Slayer, Practical Magic, Charmed and The Craft inspiring an aesthetic revolution for new generations. This era of Medievalism was distinctly concerned with female empowerment, taking the figure of the witch and interpreting her as a modern, revolutionary symbol.

Industrial anxieties, anti-war sentiments, and female rage designed our past Medieval inclinations, so why and how are we interpreting the period today? Perhaps there is a sentiment of post-plague sympathy that connects our generation to the past. After all, we saw how bardcore versions of modern music went viral during lockdowns, and just last year Netflix adapted Boccaccio’s The Decameron, a story set during the plague. But there is a certain distinction made when naming our revival Castlecore, a word which immediately leans us back towards the Arthurian chivalric tradition. 

In a time when Gen Z’s biggest kink has been statistically revealed to be the simple fantasy of monogamy, perhaps we are seeking satisfaction for our romantic cravings from the mythology of courtly love. I would be remiss not to point us towards Chappell Roan’s VMAs performance, where she shared her first look as a Medieval temptress to sing her hit single Good Luck Babe! clad in silver armour. Can we not interpret Roan’s ballad as a queering of the Arthurian myth, doomed love-triangle and insurmountable identities included? She kept the theme alive when she recently accepted the Grammy Award for Best New Artist while sporting a hennin; a medieval cone-shaped headdress reserved only for women of nobility. All hail Chappell Roan, a chivalric poet for the new age. 

Emerging fashion pieces support this romantic interpretation of our incoming Medieval revival. On TikTok, creators promote feminine silhouettes which mix materials like suede, velvet, and lace throughout the outfit. We’ve already encountered the popularity of balaclavas and bonnets, but this will expand onto a variety of hair accessories and jewellery. Our Medieval colour palettes will be more Gothic, invoking the imagery of brooding romances through deep burgundies and rich blues punctured by silver accessories. Expect pointy-toed shoes, long gloves, braiding, and cross necklaces. Listen to Enya and Kate Bush, watch Excalibur and The Green Knight, pick up A Song of Ice and Fire or The Salt Grows Heavy. Contemporary Medieval interpretations are all around us, making Castlecore a particularly supple trend to dig your teeth into. Enjoy it!